So, this week has been...interesting. We've carted ourselves off near the jungle to white water raft on a tributary of the Amazon, we've visited a biodiverse, sustainable potato farm ran by self-determining indigenous communities, and now we're packing our things and preparing for our grand hike tomorrow---starting at 4:30 am sharp.
So, white water rafting. Alex enjoys such deadly adventures. I am quite reasonably horrified of water--especially fast moving water that slams into rocks and falls over small cliffs. But, Alex came horseback riding with me, so, I promised to go rafting. So we sought out a nice place that seemed legit, put on some sunscreen, and headed towards the river. The Urubamba River, to be precise, which is a head water of the Amazon! So, we arrive at the base camp, suit up in some sleek looking wet suits, put on some quite large and uncomfortable yellow jackets, life vests, helmets, etc, etc and head to our boats--erm, rafts.
So the two hour section of river that we rafted was apparently a level 3, though some parts were so incredibly dangerous (due to the large rocks and whirlpools) that we actually had to walk (or rather, climb) the coastal cliffs around the river to safer spots.
Anyway, it was actually quite fun. Despite the extreme upper body strength required and the amazingly freezing cold water that continually filled the bottom of the raft (causing us to lose all feeling in our extremities). Also, during intense sections of the rafting, because our raft had an uneven number of 5 people, I was placed in the middle of the front--sort of like a ship mast--where I faced the sloshing cold water head on (and, thus, ended up being incredibly soaked, under my wetsuit). Afterwards, we had lunch (which, of course, was a fried egg), and sat in a most wonderful sauna to warm up. Then Alex and two other people chose to zip line across the river, TWICE! It looked pretty exciting, but I had most definitely had my fill of adventure for the day.
After returning to Cusco we had planned to visit condors--which will probably never actually happen--but instead we finally found a day to head to Potato Park. This is a biodiversity reserve where six indigenous communities collaborate on sustainable farming (not just of potatoes, but of other Andean varieties of plants too). Anyway, Pablo has a friend who works with people in Potato Park, and so we received a pretty intimate tour. After stopping for lunch at a famous quinoa soup restaurant in Pisac, we headed on up to the park. There, our guide explained everything to us in as much detail as our Spanish would allow--about Andean medicinal plants, about the history and work of the campesinos, about the indigenous communities there, about discrimination, about medical clinics for the community, and so on and so forth. We stopped a couple of times along the way to meet with locals. Once we even got to go inside a construction zone where campesinos were communally building a new house out of adobe and Eucalyptus wood. Once at the potato museum and instruction school, our guide performed a sacred rite to the mother earth--showing us how to do so too. This was a pretty interesting and quite relative ceremony. Afterwards, we met some Quechua girls who were grinding hay/wheat with two burros walking around in a circle. We got to try, and were rather bad at it, but the girls were amused. Anyway, after that, some men came from a nearby mountain to show us the structure of the park, how the communities were arranged, and the gazillion different varieties of potatoes they grow there. They explained about how different communities grow different varieties, depending on altitude and taste desires. They physically showed us about 80 different types of potatoes, explaining the taste and cooking methods of each one, and what each one is used for culturally (for instance, some potatoes represent women and are given to husbands on wedding nights). Other potatoes are used as medicines, or for sacred rituals, and so on. It was quite amazing.
Tonight, however, we are facing the Peruvian stresses of preparing for Machu Picchu. Stress number 1: we were supposed to receive an orientation last night, but the hiking guides never showed up. Finally, tonight, they showed up an hour late. BUT at least they showed up. They showed us the map (the 36 mile long map), explained each day in detail, and answered all of our questions. So that was good. However, right before they arrived we were informed that we had to pack our stuff and leave our apartment because new students are coming tomorrow---SAY WHAT? So in a frenzy we harassed the owner of the apartment, asking sensible questions such as "where do we put our things, where do we stay when we get back?" etc. etc. His answers were along the lines of "I have somewhere to put your things, I don't know where you go when you get back." Of course. So, despite our extreme hunger, we called our program director after the hiking guides left and demanded answers (nicely demanded, that is...or maybe rather, asked what was up). We ate some curry, returned to our apartment, and were then informed (as we were trying to borrow an extra bag from the owner) that we actually get to keep our room and we can leave our things there. Huzzah! Huzzah! So, all the stress from today ended up not really being stressful at all. Now, though, we have to shower and prepare for our incredible journey that begins tomorrow, bright and early.
So, see you later! In five days! (After which, we get to head back to the States!!!!! Tofu sandwiches! Veggie BBQ! Paneer Tikka Masala! Malai Kofta! mmmmmm)
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